TREASURE
IN OUR MIDST: - An article Printed
in the ‘Marshlander Magazine’. July 1980 By J. P. Aegerter
I hope that 'the inclusion of yet another
piece about Saltfleetby will not cause irritation; but I have been waiting for
six months or more to find a space to slip it in. Marshlander has been so well
supplied with material, mostly needing instant inclusion, that I have had to
bide my time. Now I am seizing my opportunity, though it is a little,
unfortunate that Saltfleetby rather predominates already in this issue.
Newcomers will hardly be aware of All
Saints' Church it is rather off-centre, though they may have seen its leaning
tower clearly visible across the, fields at East End. This is our treasure: a
building of Norman origin, with additions and alterations showing examples of
all the styles in English architecture from that period onwards.
It has Norman pillars and Early English as
well as magnificent, huge windows on the North side dating from the 1400's - the
church is full of light. As most of its furnishings were stripped away, it has
only become more beautiful in its almost
unadorned simplicity. (It still has a
single row of old pews, so there is somewhere for the visitor to rest.) Its
magnificent timbered roof, the ancient 13th.century reredos (very
rare) the 14th.century rood-screen (one
portion is away being restored), the
unusual font are some of the features, to be found here. This village is very
fortunate that the Redundant Churches Fund took over All Saints in 1973 for
restoration. Like all old parish churches it is steeped in the-history of our
country-that alone would make it a subject of interest and concern but its
significance is as a continuing place of Christian worship through nine hundred
years.
I am not alone in feeling that the purpose of this building is not finished. It
does not feel like a dead Church, no longer used for the worship of God.
Visitors from far a field have sensed this. We in the village, understood the
reasons for its redundancy, but that does not mean that one cannot use it for
one's private prayers or reflections. The church is usually open.
Some of the larger furniture has been
"adopted"; Mr. Roger Chapman has painstakingly cleaned and oiled the Tudor
pulpit and Mr. Beaumont from Manby, the fine Jacobean pulpit. Mrs. Madge
Rollinson has cleaned and polished the old harmonium; Mr. Maurice Rollinson and
Mr. Green have laboured in the bell-tower (very messy at the moment until the
nesting season is finished!) and with
the walls. John Broddle has made great
efforts to exclude the birds - an
almost impossible task - shinning
up ladders with wire netting and so on.
Every year, a very comprehensive compendium of Historic Houses, Castles,
and Gardens etc. is published. It costs 80p and is a very useful handbook,
especially at holiday times; it covers the whole country. This year, the
Redundant Churches' Fund, for the first time, have advertised in it a selection
of some of the churches they have taken over to promote interest. Only twelve
have been
chosen from the whole of England - only one Lincolnshire church
has been selected - All Saints', Saltfleetby.
J.
P. A. EGERTER.
Thank
you to Mr. Colin Vickers, who allowed me to copy the following Information, from a booklet
called: -
'All Sorts in All Saints'
‘All Saint’s
Church
Saltfleetby- A Short History’
This
brief history by the late Reverend Keith Jones M.A. (Oxon) Rector from 1959 -
1968, appeared as a series of articles during 1962/3 in “The Marshlander”-
which he edited. After his retirement permission was given for these to be
reprinted at a later date.
All
Saints’ Church remained in use until 1970. It was declared redundant in 1973
and is now in the care of the Redundant Churches Fund.
An
initial and extensive restoration began soon afterwards
and
the structural programme, urged by the Reverend K. Jones in the last chapter of
these notes has been carried out and enlarged upon.
The
parish must be indebted to the Reverend David Lambert
-
the
succeeding Incumbent - for his timely appeal to the Redundant Churches' Fund to
take the church into its care. It would have been impossible otherwise to
restore this splendid church to the condition we find it in today.
Recent
work here includes restoration of the rood screen between the chantry chapel and
the nave; the removal, repair and resetting of seven windows; complete rewiring
of the electrical circuit; the safe re-housing of the five bells in the tower.
These can now be struck with a hammer device anonymously installed by some of
the "Friends of All Saints' - a small body of parishioners, who maintain an
active interest in the care of the church.
We
are most grateful of all to the Redundant Churches Fund for restoring and
maintaining this heritage - not only for us in this village, but for the many
appreciative visitors and students who come from all over this country and many
parts of the world.
It
is pleasant to learn that two ladies from New York have regularly forwarded a
generous donation towards its upkeep (through the R.C.F.)
after
reading an article about it in an American newspaper. The Wall Street Journel.
ALL SORTS IN ALL SAINTS
It is a perfect museum of architecture. All Saints’
contains all sorts of styles, from early to late, and so “is a church of quite
exceptional interest”. We hope you will find this true.
I. THE EARLIEST: NORMAN
No
one knows when first a church was built here. The oldest of which, traces remain
dates from about 1100, or shortly after the building of the keep of the Tower of
London. From marks on the north wall of the present church, it seems that the
original one was only two-thirds its length, but had a south aisle which ran
along the side of the chancel.
Three
relics of this Norman church survive. First, some of the stonework of its walls
forms part of the present walls; but don’t ask us exactly which parts.
Secondly, the jambs, or supporting sides, of the arch leading from the nave into
the chancel are very early, and so are the curved stones, known as responds, now
hidden by the wooden flooring, from which this chancel arch springs.
But the
most exciting fragment of the original church is the third. In the chapel at the
east end of the south aisle, there is a double arch. The central pillar of this
arch is certainly Norman, and the whole structure has been allowed to remain in
spite of the fact that a single and wider arch was later built alongside it, and
was presumably meant to replace it.
We
can be thankful that this never happened, and so a very curious feature has been
preserved in All Saints’ for 850 years.
I1. EARLY ENGLISH
In
the year 1215 King John set his seal to Magna Carta on an island in the Thames,
at Runnymede. By about that date the main mass of All Saints’ Church, as we
see it today, had risen from the ground.
What
happened then was that the whole of the original Norman Church was extended
westwards, parts of its walls being incorporated in the new masonry. This
westward extension made necessary the building of an arcade of five arches
between nave and south aisle. They rest on plain cylindrical columns, and
confront us as we enter by the south door. Additions in the chancel at this time
include a two - light window with simple tracery in the north wall, and the arch
on the south side next to the double one in the chapel. Outside the church, five
of the buttresses supporting the south wall belong to this period.
But
the outstanding feature of the new church was the tower. We still have its two
lower stages, built mainly of roughly - shaped limestone, and plastered. In
spite of its leaning heavily to the west - a process which probably began soon
after it was built - the stonework is remarkably sound, without cracks or
settlements. Inside the church, the arch between tower and nave, and the deeply
splayed lancet which forms the west window, are typically Early English. A stone
vaulting once covered the tower, but this was destroyed when, later, bells were
hung.
So
by the early 1200’s All Saints’ had taken very much its present shape: a
rather unusual one, with its south aisle continuing nearly the whole length of
nave and chancel.
III. DECORATED.
The
builders of All Saints’ Church in the early l200’s did their work so well
that no structural alterations were necessary for two or three hundred years.
There was one exception to this. The respond, or ground support, of the most
westerly of the five arches inside the church was built up with solid stone so
as to strengthen the tower, which was already settling. It maybe that at the
same time a start was made on the building of buttresses to support the tower
outside. This work occurred during what is called the Decorated Period of
English architecture, or about when Edward 1 called the first English Parliament
in 1295.
Two
interesting additions to the interior of the church were now made also. First, a
fine ornamental carving, with niche, was inserted in the east wall of the south
aisle, no doubt to form a reredos for the stone altar which stood below. There
are only four other examples of such stone reredoses in Lincolnshire, and two of
these, of later date than ours, are in the Theddlethorpe churches, so that they
seem to have been quite a local fashion.
Secondly,
a font was provided, of Purbeck marble. More information about the history of
this font would be very welcome, for at some date it seems to have been removed
and replaced by another, of some 200 years’ later date. Later again, the bowl
of the original font was returned to the church and placed upon the inverted
second font, where it stands to this day.
IV. PERPENDICULAR
On
a Palm Sunday, in driving snow, 500 years back, the costliest battle in human
lives ever fought on English soil took place at Towton Field, near Tadcaster,
between the Yorkists and the Lancastrians in the Wars of the Roses. About the
same time, and in complete contrast, skilled workmen were peacefully adding many
interesting features to All Saints’ Church
The
first was the upper stage of the tower, which is built of mixed limestone and
the soft greenstone of the wolds, and provided with double bell windows in each
face. This heavy weight on an already leaning structure made necessary the huge
buttresses at the north-east and north-west corners which are such a
characteristic of the exterior of the church. In the nave at the west end two
others were built also. Thanks to a restoration carried out in the nick of time
ten years ago, the outline of the tower looks now just as it left the
builders’ hands in about 1465. (ie. in the 1950’s)
The
interior of the church was beautified by two main additions. One of these was
the pair of square-headed transomed windows in the north wall of the nave.
Viewed from outside, the carved stonework of these windows is both unusual and
well preserved. They are typical of the Perpendicular style, of which one of our
finest examples is King’s College Chapel, Cambridge. The doorway in the north
wall and the stouter buttresses supporting the south wall also date from this
period.
The
second main addition to the church was the carved oak screen across the chancel
arch and on two sides of the chapel. Though stripped and damaged at a later
date, enough remains to show that when new these screens must have presented a
splendid sight, adorned as they were with glowing colour. They have been
described as fine examples of the quite distinctive style of screenwork of the
Lincolnshire Marshlands
Finally,
the porch was built. With its angled buttresses of brick and stone, and the
carved stonework in the gable, it commands the attention of every visitor; but
its chief interest lies in the Coat of Arms and Latin inscription over the outer
archway. Translated, the latter reads: “This is the shield of John Gray,
Gentleman, Patron of this Church.
Two
other shields support the central one, the right being charged with a crucifix
and the left bearing emblems of the Passion. It is known that a Rector was
presented by a John Gray in 1455 and that the family of Gray came into
possession of lands in Saltfleetby by marriage as early as 1382. No doubt John
Gray headed the renovation of All Saints’ 500 years ago, prosperity resulting
from the wool trade providing the means with which it was accomplished.
The loving
and elaborate work lavished on an already large church prompts the question
whether in those days the population was not much larger than today. This was
not so. Money was freely spent on the church to the Glory of God, without any
regard to the number of worshippers- nor, we might add, to the problems of those
who, hundreds of years later, might be responsible for its preservation.
V.
ELIZABETHAN & GEORGIAN
It
is sobering to recall that the last substantial additions to All Saints’
Church were made in the mid- 1400’s. Since then it has faced 500 marshland
winters, receiving only such attentions as the ravages of time and weather made
necessary to stonework and timber.
The
first of these was a re-roofing of the church perhaps actually in progress as
battered ships of the Spanish Armada passed Saltfleetby in their north- bound
flight and Elizabeth stood among her cheering soldiers at Tilbury. The renewed
nave roof, in particular, is massive and unusual being described by our
architect, Mr. L. H. Bond, as “interesting, with tall queen posts connected
with arched heads, shaped brackets, and carved bosses.” The age of the lead is
unknown, but one of the sheets recently examined bore the date 1698, and others
later ones.
The
little pulpit, snugly fitted into the NE corner of the nave, comes from the same
period. Some renewal of the church’s seating must have taken place, for with
the exception of the carving on the upper panels, the pulpit is made of painted
oak pew- work. Traces of the old paint can be seen inside it. How alterations
and renewals continued to be made can be seen from a couple of bequests. In 1537
John Baker left £3.6.8. “to the makying of the South Yle of the Church with a
Flat Rufe” and in 1611 Margery Neale left “XXs” to “The repairing and
making seats”.
Two
centuries now elapsed without any evidence of building work - the longest such
period in the church’s history. But the year 1799 saw the removal of the old
stone vaulting and the hanging of five bells in the tower. They were cast by
James Harrison, of Barton-on-Humber, and the tenor bears the following names:
Rev. George Stephenson, Rector, Rev. Richard Kilvington, Curate. James Harrison
of Barton, founder. Lancley Gace Hodgson and Benjamin Curtis, churchwardens.
Light but melodious, these bells rang out for 150 years, apart from a period
recently when the church was closed and the tower dangerous - a reminder that
our last chapter will carry us to Victorian and Modern restorations.
VI. VICTORIAN &
MODERN
Generally
speaking, Victorian church architecture possesses few merits in modern eyes, and
those ancient churches which escaped restoration in that age now count
themselves fortunate. Scant regard was usually paid to historical features, many
of which disappeared forever under well meaning but misguided hands. All Saints
‘ was luckier than most but suffered in two respects.
In
1873 the chancel was rebuilt, on the old lines it is true, but with complete
loss of its ancient character. It was re-roofed - not very substantially - with
pitch pine and Welsh slates. At about the same time the porch was, in our
architect’s words “somewhat unhappily restored with a light roof covered
with Welsh slating”. Quite our best legacy from the last century was the
repairing and re-leading of the nearly flat roof of the south aisle, done very
skilfully in 1892 and recorded in his diary by William Paddison, our local
chronicler.
To
come to modern times, in 1909 the whole of the nave and chapel was refloored and
reseated with chairs, not without protests from some who deplored the loss of
the old pews. A tall oak pulpit, formerly in the chapel of Oriel College,
Oxford, whose Fellows and Scholars are the patrons of the living, was given to
the church in 1935.
A
most timely restoration of the tower and chancel in 1954, and of the eastern
half of the lead roof of the nave in 1955, was carried out at a cost of some £3,000,
the Historic Churches Preservation Trust contributing liberally. A threefold
structural programme would secure the completion of the work then embarked on:
(1) the re-leading of the western half of the nave roof. (2) the closure of
cracks in the walls and floors of the church caused by a further slight
settlement of the tower, and (3) repairs to the angle buttresses and gable
copings of the porch.
We
have passed in rapid review the 850 years of this sturdy church’s life, and
can re-assert that it
is indeed “a museum of architecture” on which skilled hands in many ages
have laboured. But lest such words give a false impression of its builders’
intentions, let us make it
clear that it
was primarily erected to the glory and for the worship of God.
Rev.
Keith M. Jones M.A. (Oxon)
This
Extract was taken from the Kelly’s Directory of Lincolnshire - 1885
The church of All Saints is a building of stone, chiefly of the Lancet period, with
some portions of Transitional date, and insertions in other styles, and
consists of chancel, nave, south aisle, extending nearly to the full length of
both, south porch and a western embattled tower containing 5 bells, of
particularly fine tone: the chancel was restored in 1873, at a cost of over
£3oo: on the south side of the chancel is a curious double arcade of one arch,
immediately behind which is a slight pillar and two narrower arches; the ancient
screens across the nave and aisle, and between the chancel and chantry, still
remain at the east end of the latter is a reredos niche of Geometrical Early English; the font
is in the same style: in the spandrils of the outer arch of the porch are shields of arms, and an inscription recording
the erection of some part of the church by John Grantham, a former patron: in
the chantry chapel is an ancient slab, with an almost effaced inscription in
Norman French: some fragments of stained glass remain. The register dates from
the year 1558, and contains many records of the Newcomen family.
This Extract was taken from the Kelly’s Directory of Lincolnshire - 1905
The
church of All Saints is a building of stone, chiefly of the Lancet period with
some portions of transitional date, end insertions in other styles, and consists of chancel, nave, south isle, extending
nearly to the full length of both, south porch and an embattled western tower
containing 5 bells, of particularly fine tone: the chancel was restored in 1873,
at the cost of over £300: on the south side of the chancel is a curious double
arcade of one arch, immediately behind which is a slight pillar and two narrower
arches; the ancient screens across the nave and aisle and between the chancel
and chantry still remain; at the east end of the latter is a canopy for a
triptych in the Geometrical Early English style; the font is of the same period;
over the outer arch of the porch is a shield of arms and an inscription in Latin recording the erection of some part of the church by John Grantham, a former patron:
in the chantry chapel is an ancient slab with an effaced inscription in Lombardic
characters: some, fragments of stained glass remain: there are 80 sittings. The
registers date from the year 1558, and contain many records of the Newcomen
family.
Nothing
appears to have changed in these extracts.
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